Sewing Guide - Part 4 - Basic Sewing Instructions

  

Now you have your pattern, all your fabric and notions and you're all set to go! In this guide I'm going to take you from preparing your pattern to the final pressing. The steps below are in order.

PATTERN

READ - This is the very first step when starting a new pattern. Read your pattern all the way through before you even cut out your pieces. It's easy to jump right into your project but don't. I can't stress how important it is to read your pattern first!

PRINT - In your print options choose the size indicated in your pattern. It's usually actual size or 100%. Once your pattern is printed. Measure the little box with a measurement, it is extremely important that this is the same measurement that's given in the box. It has to measures exactly,  even if it's off 1mm the pattern pieces will off and the fitting of the garment will be incorrect. (Photos below)

CUT - Remember to use your paper scissors when cutting out your pattern pieces. Be precise when cutting your pattern pieces otherwise seams will not match correctly.

CUTTING YOUR FABRIC

WASH - When using cotton fabric, it should always be washed and dried in a dryer to removing sizing. You don't want to spend hours making an outfit only to wash it and it shrinks no longer fitting your doll.

IRON - As tempting as it may be to skip this step, don't. Give your fabric a quick ironing to remove any wrinkles and to make your fabric as smooth as possible otherwise if you don't your cut pieces will be distorted.

CUTTING LAYOUT - Usually your pattern instructions with have a cutting layout. It's best to follow the designer's cutting layout to get the best usage out of your fabric.

PIN - Pin down you pattern pieces keeping them as smooth as possible. 

CUT - With your fabric scissors cut out your pattern pieces. Keep your cutting precise, don't cut into your paper pattern pieces and don't try to cut over pins (that will wreck your scissors real quick). Once all your pieces are cut out, keep the paper pattern pinned to the fabric to make it easier to know which pieces are which.

MARKING -  Once your fabric is cut, transfer any markings that your pattern pieces have(ie: gathering lines, trim placement, button placement, etc)

SEWING

STARTING - Begin with the pattern pieces that are stated in your directions. It's best to follow each step of your pattern in the order that they are written. If you jump around on your pattern it is quite easy to skip a step and you won't have the desired effects in the end.

BEGINNING STITCHES - Many machines like to suck up your tiny little pattern pieces. The best way to avoid this is to hold the tail of the threads and hold them taunt as you gentle pull on them to help guide your fabric through the feed. If this method doesn't work and you find your fabric is still getting caught, try putting a coffee filter under your fabric and sewing over it. After you've sewn your seam, gently rip the filter away from your stitching. If it won't tear off easily try spritzing it with some water.

SEAM ALLOWANCES - Pay close attention the the allowable seam allowances the designer has given. Most doll clothing has 1/4" seam allowances, however sometimes they are only 1/8". It may not seem like much but it's the difference between your garment fitting and being way to small.

BASTING - This may seem like a waste of time since you're pining your fabric pieces together anyways. But if your pattern is telling you to baste then baste. It makes all the difference in the world and makes your finished project much more professional looking. When basting use a contrast thread and use long stitches (by hand). Basting stitches are removed after your seam is sewn on the machine.

STITCHING - Use a smaller stitch than usual when sewing doll clothes, try keeping your stitches to scale.

PRESSING -  Your pattern instructions will tell you whether to press your seams open, towards the back. Always follow your instructions. When pressing your seams keep even pressure on your iron and press down on to your fabric, don't move it around like when you're ironing.

FINISHING YOUR EDGES - Your pattern will give you instructions as to when to finish the edges of your fabric. Generally any edges that will be covered with a lining don't require a finish. Exposed edges can be finished with a serger if bulk isn't an issue. If you don't have a serger/overlock machine you can use a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine to finish off the raw edges alternatively you can use pinking shears. If using pinking shears be careful not to cut into your stitches.

FINISHING

TRIM - If you didn't back-stitch to secure the threads, tie them off in knots. You can also secure them with some fray check if you desire.Trim off any loose threads with your embroidery scissors. If you serged your raw edges, thread the tail back through the stitching to keep it tidy. 

WASH/RINSE- Give your garment a quick wash or rinse to remove any markings that may be left behind. I prefer to hand wash and hang to dry the doll clothes I make.

IRON- Once your garment is dried, iron it as you would any other garment.

As they become available I'll link videos to each step.

You can check out the other guides in this series below:

1. Sewing for Dolls Intro
2. Reading a Pattern
3. Sewing Supplies
4. Basic Sewing Instructions 

REMINDER:  Sew along begins this Saturday, hope to see you there! Subscribe to my channel to get notifications when new videos are released.

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links I make a small percentage at no cost to you.