This is an extensive list of sewing terms that you may come across while making your project. I may have missed some, but I will add them as I come across them. If there's a term not on the list, feel free to send me a message and I'll add it.
A
Anchoring Stitches
These are machine stitches that are sewn with zero stitch length, to keep from pulling out. This term can also be used to refer to when you stitch backwards for a couple of stitches, to anchor it.
Applique
This comes from the French word “appliquer,” which means to apply or put on. In sewing, applique is used to describe the process of applying one kind of fabric on top of another layer of fabric. This is usually achieved with a satin or zig-zag stitch.
Armscye
The opening in a bodice to which the sleeve is attached; also known as an armhole.
B
Ballpoint Needles
A type of sewing machine needles that are specifically designed to be used when sewing knit fabrics. The rounded tip prevents piercing, that would damage the knit.
Back-stitch
2 or 3 reverse stitches to secure the stitches at the beginning and end of a seam. A back-stitch or a back tack will secure the stitches and prevent your seam from coming undone.
Bar Tack
A small row, of narrow zig-zag stitches to reinforce or keep a facing in place. They are used on a jeans fly, buttonholes and sometimes on the back of dress openings.
Baste
Temporary long running stitches, that are easily removed. They can be made by either hand or machine, that holds the fabric together before permanent stitches are applied.
Beeswax
Beeswax is used to coat thread for hand sewing. You can do this yourself by pulling the thread over a block of beeswax or purchase waxed thread. It is important to remember to never use waxed thread in your sewing machine.
Bias
This is a 45 degree angle to the gain line, or diagonal direction of a woven fabric.
Bias Tape
Bias strips can be cut in any width and are generally folded twice lengthwise: once in half, and then opened and folding so that outer edges of the strip meet in the centre creating the “tape” with no raw edges visible. These strips are extremely flexible and easy to manipu around curves. One long edge is sewn along the edge of the front side of your garment, then folded over to the back. The folded flap remains closed and is sewn with a blind stitch to conceal all the raw edges. Often used on necklines and armscye when making sleeveless tops/dresses.
Binding
A narrow strip of material which is sewn around the edge of a garment, usually bias tape is used for binding.
Blanket Stitch
A hand stitch used for finishing a fabric edge.
Bobbin
The thread that comes up from the bottom and meets the thread from the spool to form the stitch. Bobbins need to be wound up and inserted properly into a sewing machine. Check your manual to see if your's will only use a certain brand.
Buttonhole
A small cut in the fabric that is bound with small stitching. The hole has to be just big enough to allow a button to pass through it and remain in place.
C
Casing
A folded over edge of a garment, which is usually at the waist. It is used to to make an elastic waistband or drawstrings.
Clip / Notch
Clipping and notching will give you better results in convex (scalloped hem) and concave (neckline) curves. A clip is a snip towards the stitching and a notch is a v-shaped (wedge) cut out towards the stitching. To get the best result, cut close to the stitch line but not through.
Cord
a long slender flexible material usually consisting of several strands (as of thread or yarn) woven or twisted together.
Crochet
A method using yarn and a hooked needle to make a garment, fabric or lace.
Crossgrain
The line of fabric perpendicular to the selvage edge of the fabric.
Cross stitch
A needlework stitch that uses 2 stitches that cross over to create a cross shape.
Cut on Fold
When a pattern tells you that you need to cut a pattern piece on fold, it means you need to align that edge to the fabric fold. That way you only have to cut out half of the pattern piece (don't cut the fold!), but when you unfold the fabric you have a full symmetrical piece of your garment. This is often the case for a bodice front without a centre seam.
Cutting mat
A self-healing board used for cutting fabric on. They are marked with measuring grids.
D
Dart
A common technique used for shaping garments. They normally appear around the waist and bust.
Double Needle
Two machine needles attached to a single shaft, that sews two parallel rows of stitches at once with two spools of thread and a single bobbin.
Double-fold Hem
A hem that’s folded towards the inside of the garment, first you fold the raw edge toward the wrong side of the fabric, and then fold again towards the inside of the garment encasing the raw edge.
Drape
The fluid way that the fabric hangs in a garment.
Dressmaker
Someone who makes custom clothing for women or in this case dolls.
E
Ease
The allowance of space in a pattern for fit, comfort and style, over exact body measurements.
Edge Stitch
Straight stitching very close to the edge of a seam, trim or outer edge.
Embellishment
A decorative item added to improve the look of a garment or other project. Embellishments can include buttons, beads, jewels, ornamental stitching or lace.
Embroidery
Designs and images are created by stitching strands of floss or thread onto fabric. Many styles of stitches. Can be achieved by hand or with an Embroidery Machine.
F
Face
The front of a piece of fabric (the right side).
Facing
Facing is a way to finish the raw fabric edges, stabilise, add structure, and strength. They are a partial lining often made from the main fabric and are used on necklines and armholes.
Fat Quarter
A quarter of a yard of fabric measuring 18 x 22 inches. Perfect size for making simple doll dresses, shorts or tops.projects.
Feather Stitch
Hand stitch used to smoothly join 2 layers of fabric. Can also be a form of decorative hand stitch.
Feed-dogs
Small jagged feet that sit under the presser foot of a sewing machine. By lifting and lowering them, you have the ability to use the machine for free hand embroidery.
Finger Press
When you use your fingers, fingernail, or another flat and smooth object to flatten or open a seam.
French Seams
Achieved by sewing the seam on the right side of the fabric then turning the fabric so right sides are facing sewing a second seam, encasing the raw edges.
Fusible Interfacing
Fusible interfacing can be permanently fused with the wrong side of the fabric to add strength and structure to your garment. It's often used in button bands, buttonhole areas, collars, and cuffs. One side has a glue on it that will fuse with the fabric, you should be able to feel small bumps where the glue is. The fusible interfacing is fused by applying heat and pressure for a certain amount of time. Always use a press cloth to apply the fusible interfacing to avoid the glue fusing with your iron. After applying the fusible interfacing let it cool down before you move the piece you've just fused. Fusing comes in many different weights, lightweight is most often used for doll clothes.
Frogging
When you've made a mistake and have to unpick your stitches – comes from the sound frogs make 'ribbit ribbit' sounding like 'rip it rip it!
G
Gather
A way of gathering the fabric by sewing two parallel rows of long stitches above and below the seam line to create fullness in the fabric, such as ruffles.
Grade
Cut seam allowances in graduated widths to eliminate bulk and prevent a ridge from showing on the right side of the garment. Trim the first layer as close to the seam as possible, cut the next layer about an eighth of an inch and the front layer at a quarter inch.
Grain / Cross grain
Grain describes the direction of the warp and weft of a woven fabric. The grain or lengthwise grain of the fabric runs parallel to the selvage. This direction has little to no stretch.
The cross-grain runs perpendicular to the selvage. This direction has a little stretch
H
Hem
The finished bottom edge of a garment.
Hong Kong Seam
Hong Kong seams use a strip of bias-cut fabric to encase the raw edge of your fabric, but the binding on the wrong side of the seam allowance is left raw so it's less bulky than bound seams.
Hooks and Eyes
Small and sturdy fasteners used at the points of a garment opening.
I
Interfacing
An additional layer of fabric that is used to stabilize, add structure, "crispness" and strength. It lays between the lining/facing and the outer fabric of a garment.
Invisible zipper
This zipper is sewn with a special presser foot and seams. when it's done right it's hard to see the zipper in the seam.
K
Knit Fabric/knits
Knit fabric is a very stretchy material and it's made by a series of interlocking loops.
L
Lapped seams
Seams lapped one over the other – wrong side to right right – with seamlines meeting in the middle.
Lining
A piece of material used to finish the inside of a garment. Linings can hide the seam and make the garments easier and more comfortable to wear.
Long Stitch
A stitch for tapestry or embroidery which can cover 1 – 12 threads in a single stitch.
M
Match Point
A point marked on one pattern piece so it can be matched to a similar point on another pattern piece.
Mark
Transferring pattern symbols and markings to fabric. There are many ways to do this.
Using dressmakers carbon paper and a tracing wheel, Tailors tacks are made with thread, Chalk, Water-soluble fabric markers or Pins
Muslin
A cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting.
N
Nap
Is the raised (fuzzy) surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet or moleskin.
Needlework
Is decorative sewing and textile arts handicrafts. Anything that uses a needle for construction can be called needlework.
Notches
Are clips or wedges cut into the seam allowance in order to facilitate matching and sewing the corresponding seams during garment construction.
Notions
All of the accessories used in sewing projects. Needles, thread, buttons, seam ripper, lace, etc.
O
Overlay
This refers to the top layer of fabric, when there is a different one underneath.
Overlocker
A specific type of sewing machine that is used to create finished seams easily and quickly. Also known as a serger.
P
Pattern
A template on paper or tissue from which all of the pieces of the garment are traced onto fabric. All the parts are then cut out and assembled to create the final piece.
Pins
Used to secure patterns pieces or fabric together. Come in a variety of sizes.
Pintuck
Are simply a small tuck in the fabric. Most commonly they are stitched in place but they can also be folded and pressed without stitching. A decorative finish.
Placket
An opening or slit in a garment, covering fastenings or giving access to a pocket, or the flap of fabric under such an opening.
Pleat
A double or multiple fold in a garment or other item made of cloth, held by stitching the top or side.
Preshrink
Achieved by washing and drying your fabric before cutting your pattern. Natural fibre fabrics shrink when you wash them. It is not uncommon for fabric to shrink 5%.
Presser foot
The footplate of a sewing machine that holds the fabric down onto the part that feeds it under the needle. Come in a variety of styles for different sewing techniques.
Pressing
Use an iron to press seams open or to one side. Do this by lifting the iron slightly when you move then press down.
Pressing Cloth
A pressing cloth is a piece of cotton fabric or synthetic mesh used as a protective layer between your clothing and the hot sole-plate of the iron. It is mainly used while ironing delicate fabrics to prevent scorching or shine.
Princess Seam
A vertical seam line which gives shape to a garment in place of darts. Usually found on bodices, dresses, and jackets.
R
Raw Edge
The edge of the piece of fabric after it is cut. If left unfinished, most fabric will fray.
Right Side
The front, or face of the fabric. This is the side of the fabric designed to be on the outside of the garment.
Ruching
Achieved by gathering both long edges of a fabric strip. Used to adorn garments.
Running Stitch
Most basic and most commonly used stitch, in which the needle and thread simply pass over and under two pieces of fabric.
S
Seam
The line where 2 pieces of fabric are held together by the stitches.
Seam Allowance
This is the width of the fabric beyond the seam line. On doll clothing this is usually 1/8" or 1/4".
Seam Finish
Prevents the raw edge of your seam from unraveling. Pinking shears, a serger or zig-zag stitch, French seams, and Hong Kong seams are examples of seam finishes.
Seam Ripper
A small tool with a sharp pointed edge used for unpicking stitches.
Selvage
A selvage is the tightly woven edge of a fabric. It prevents the side edges of the fabric from ravelling or fraying.
Serger
A type of sewing machine that can seam, trim, and overcast raw edges.
Sew-in Interfacing
Sew-in interfacing is sewn in by hand and is mostly used in structured and tailored garments.
Staystitch
Stitching placed on or just outside the seamline. It is used to stablise the fabric and prevent it from stretching out of shape.
Straight Stitch
A simple, straight stitched line.
Stretch Percentage
How much the fabric can comfortably stretch(don’t use the raw edge for the test, because it will likely stretches more than the rest of the fabric). Your pattern will state how much stretch your fabric needs to fit properly.
Stitch in the Ditch
Stitch in the seam line, pulling it slightly open on both sides.
Stitch Length
Length of a stitch. On doll clothing a smaller stitch length looks better.
T
Tailor’s Chalk
A piece of chalk used to mark fabric.
Tailor's Tacks
Loose hand sewed stitches to transfer pattern markings on to the fabric.
Tailor's Ham or Dressmaker's Ham
A firm cushion for pressing. It's used to shape collars, sleeves, darts, and curves.
Tambour Hook
Used for bead embroidery as well as decorative chain stitch embroidery called Tambour work.
Termination Point
The place where two seam lines end.
Thread Tension
Thread tension is controlled on the top (where the top thread travels through the tension discs) and on the bottom through the bobbin case. The top tension can be easily adjusted, often with a dial on the sewing machine. This needs to be adjusted for buttonholes and for thicker and thinner fabrics.
The bottom tension can also be adjusted, by turning the small screw on your bobbin case.
Thimble
A protective cover worn on the finger or thumb when sewing. Can be made of metal or leather.
Toile
A toile is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheaper plain fabric so that the design can be tested and perfected. Multiple toiles can be made in the process of perfecting a design.
Top Stitch
A line of stitching parallel to a seam or edge, sewn from the right side. These can be decorative or can be used to hold the neck lining down.
Trim
Cut a seam allowance to a narrower width. This will eliminate bulk and help with curved seams.
Tuck
A stitched fold of fabric. This can be used for decorative purposes or to add shape to a garment.
U
Underlay
The layer of fabric underneath another layer of fabric.
Understitch
A line of stitches that are sewn close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside. It keeps the facing or lining firmly on the inside of your garment without any stitches showing on the outside.
W
Walking Foot
A presser foot that steps across the fabric, as opposed to sliding.
Warp
The lengthwise thread in woven fabric.
Weft
The crosswise threads in woven fabric.
Woven Fabric
Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft.
Wrong Side
The back of the fabric and usually the inside of the garment. If it's hard to see which side is the right or wrong side of your fabric, use pins or chalk to mark the fabric.
Y
Yarn
A continuous length of interlocked fibres. Can be made from natural or synthetic fibres.
Yardage
A term for a length of fabric. A yard is 36 inches. In metric - 100 cm equals a metre.
Yoke
A yoke is a shaped pattern piece that forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders or around the hips to provide support for looser parts of the garment, such as a gathered skirt or the body of a shirt.
Z
Zig-zag Stitch
A stitch made with a zig-zag pattern. Often used to sew along raw edges to prevent them from fraying.
Zipper Foot
An attachment for a sewing machine that is designed for installing zippers.
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