Sewing Guide - Part 3 - Sewing Supplies

 


I have to admit, I thought writing this post would be easy as pie because I've been sewing for so long. As it turns out, years of experience can sometimes leave your mind blank since many of these supplies are used so often they just become an extension of you lol. So I've decided that I'd write this post starting with basic notions that you would use with every project, followed by a pattern, then the supplies that would be required as per the items listed in the pattern instructions. Side note: with this list I'm assuming that you will be using a sewing machine.

BASIC SEWING NOTIONS

SCISSORS- Scissors come in a variety of sizes. I personally recommend having four pairs. The first pair to cut paper, never use your fabric scissors to cut paper, they will dull very quickly. A pair of embroidery scissors for snipping off loose threads, snipping curves and for cutting anywhere that it to tight to get with regular scissors. Next is a pair of fabric scissors - these come in a variety of sizes,I personally recommend that you choose a pair no larger than 8 1/2 inches, as the bigger they are the more awkward they become cutting doll clothes. Lastly is a pair of pinking shears to finish edges that you don't want to add bulk with by doing a zig zag stitch or use a serger. 

PINS- Pins come in a variety of styles and sizes. I recommend choosing a straight pin that is short since you'll need to pin in small places. However, if you choose longer straight pins you may need to make adjustments while you're cutting out your pattern as the pin may or will interfere with your scissors and you definitely don't want to have a pin come into contact with your scissors. I use straight pins similar to these as a find the ones with a bead on the head annoying.

HAND SEWING NEEDLES - Come in a variety of sizes, it really comes down to personal choice. You can purchase a variety pack such as thisthese are the one's I use and love them -they're sharp and easy to thread.

MACHINE NEEDLES- Your sewing machine guide is the best place to look to see what size/type of needles are required for the fabric you're using.

THREAD - For making doll clothes I use 100% polyester thread such as Gutermann, it's strong and comes in a variety of colours. Often beginners ask if they should just use black or white thread. There's many arguments among seamstresses whether this should be allowed.  This is my theory - always use a matching thread colour to your fabric for any top-stitching or other stitching that will be visible when the garment is worn. For inside seams I mostly use white on my sewing machine unless the fabric is dark then I match it as closely as possible. With my serger, I have white, black, gray, light pink, light blue, dark blue, purple, green, yellow and red thread. I usually match a thread that is the closest value to the fabric I'm using.

MARKING TOOLS - Tailor's chalk is inexpensive and works well on dark coloured fabrics. Tailor pencils are also handy for when transferring markings to dark fabric. I use these fabric making markers for a few years now and love them for light coloured fabrics - so far I haven't had any issues removing them from my fabrics but it's always a good idea to test a swatch of your fabric first to make sure the markings can be removed. Another option for making your pattern markings on your fabric is to use dressmakers carbon paper with a dressmakers tracing wheel- I personally find this method tedious but it does have its uses sometimes.

SEAM RIPPER - To rip out sewing mistakes - a dressmakers best friend. I have two sizes of seam rippers, a regular size one and a smaller one for getting those really tiny stitches out.

SEAM GAUGE OR SEWING GAUGE - Is like a ruler that has a little slider on it so that you can accurately measure hems, seams or place trim without have to constantly measure the placement. This is a valuable tool to have, especially when sewing for the smaller dolls that require precise measurements. I have several in my sewing kit.

TAPE MEASURE - I recommend having several of these that are double sided (inches on one side cms on the other). They should be checked for accuracy often, as they will stretch out. Therefore I wouldn't invest a lot into a tape measure.

QUILTER'S RULER - Invaluable for marking pattern pieces where you're only given the measurements of a pattern. Also handy for marking placement lines for trim. This Dritz 6x24 lives on my sewing table

PATTERNS

SIBLIES- Since Siblies are relatively new, there's a limited amount of patterns available for them. However, I have found that patterns designed for Little Darlings fit them well. In the future I will post which patterns I've used that are interchangeable. You can find many patterns on Etsy and Pixie Faire

RUBY RED FASHION FRIENDS - You can find many patterns on Etsy and Pixie Faire to fit RRFF. Many of the Wellie Wishers patterns also will fit RRFF. In the future I will post which patterns I've used that are interchangeable.

A GIRL FOR ALL TIME - Etsy has a great selection of patterns for AGAT. You can also find many patterns on Pixie Faire

FABRIC

FABRIC TYPE - When starting out, it's best to use cotton or cotton blends. They are easy to work with and don't slide around. Look for fabric that is neither to thick or too thin. Most quilting cotton is great for making doll clothes and easily found.

MUSLIN - Is inexpensive and is great for many uses. If you're not certain if a pattern will fit, make a mock up first with muslin before cutting into your expensive fabric. It's also great to use as a lining in most cases.

SCALE - Scale is probably one of the most important factors when choosing your fabric. When sewing for dolls the smaller the scale the better. Consider this - if you were to make yourself a dress would you choose a fabric that had a floral print so large that one flower took up your whole pattern piece, or with a striped fabric only five vertical stripes covered your body.

UPCYCLING - Check out thift shops, often you can find the perfect scale in children's clothing for dolls. 

INTERFACING

FUSIBLE INTERFACING - Used to give shape/strength to fabric for collars, cuff bands and button holes. Fusible interfacing has an adhesive on one side so that you can iron it onto your fabric before cutting out your pattern piece. The adhesive side has a hard/rough feel to it - always make sure this side is facing the wrong side of the fabric your are ironing it on to. Lightweight is most commonly used when making doll clothing.

SEW IN INTERFACING - Same as the fusible interfacing only you have to sew it in place instead of  ironing it on. 

WATER SOLUBLE STABILIZER - While not exactly an interfacing it acts the same only not permanent, I thought I would mention it here. Water soluble stabilizer is used then you need your fabric to temporarily hold it's shape while machine embroidering or when joining two separate pieces of fabric together with decorative stitches or adding insertion lace, I'm sure there's probably many more uses for it but those are the ones that currently come to mind.

TRIMS

LACE TRIM - Comes in many different widths starting at about a 1/4" and up. I'm a lace trim hoarder and will purchase lace trim up to 8" wide, as long as the pattern is to scale. If you're following a pattern they always state what size to use in the materials required list. If your doing your own thing, let your imagination roll!
 
RIC RAK- I have three sizes of ric rak in my stash - 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8. Size used is dependent of the desired effect. Comes in a large variety of colours. I've found Etsy to be the best place to purchase.

BIAS TAPE - While not exactly a trim, bias tape is used as a finish so I thought I'd include it here. When making doll clothes since the amount of bias tape required is so short/small? the pattern designer will often include a pattern piece or the measurements to cut your own bias tape from the fabric you are using. However, sometimes you just don't have enough fabric to make your own or you just don't want to you can purchase premade 1/4" double sided bias tape. I often keep a variety of colours on hand just in case I have a fabric shortage.

EMBELLISHMENTS - When sewing your own doll clothes, embellishments come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, keep scale in mind and let your imagination run free to create your unique creation.

APPLIQUES -  They come in all sorts of sizes and types. Some are sewn on and others are iron on. Scale is definitely the most important factor when choosing appliques. 

FASTENINGS

LOOP TAPE (AKA VELCRO) - I'm not a fan and honestly will avoid using it. Despite my feelings on loop tape lol, if you choose to use it, look for ultra thin hook and loop tape. You will often see it marketed as for use in doll clothes supplies. I've used this one from Farmcookies in the past, it's double sided(hooks on one side, loops on the other) and comes in a single roll. 

BUTTONS - Come in a wide variety. For using as a closure with a button hole, 1/4" is a good size to use. When purchasing always remember scale - a 1/2" button may be pretty but that's way to big for your 16" or smaller doll. Tiny buttons can be purchased in a variety of colours and styles that are great to use as embellishments on your garments but too small to use as closures.

KAM SNAPS - Don't recommend. They're too large for the smaller dolls, and a pain to open. 

SEW ON SNAPS - I'm a big fan, and use them almost exclusively. I just purchased these 6mm ones and they're the perfect scale for the smaller dolls.

ZIPPERS - Are easier to sew than most people think. So far I haven't seen a pattern for the smaller dolls that require a zipper but if your pattern does call for one you can find doll size zippers on Etsy, just make sure to purchase the style your pattern requires - separating (jackets), regular zipper or invisible( a lot finer than a regular zipper.).


You can check out the other guides in this series below:

  1. Sewing for Dolls Intro
  2. Reading a Pattern
  3. Sewing Supplies
  4. Basic Sewing Instructions (Post available July 31, 2021)

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links I make a small percentage at no cost to you.

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